10 Gallon Reservoir Plumbing

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Because I wanted to keep the Alpine looking like a Sunbeam, it was necessary to use a small Scirocco type radiator. It is very small and has no hope for actually cooling this motor on a long run. That made adding a reservoir for additional water a must have. At first, I had the 1o gallon tank mounted in the passenger seat area but did not like the mounting system I had fabricated. I grew concerned that the tank could come loose during an upset event, like a spin, and break a few of my bones. I decided that the trunk was a much safer place. But this meant longer plumbing runs, an additional firewall to penetrate, and more expensive fittings.

The operating methodology is that both the 10 gallon tank and the radiator are connected to the Meziere electric water pump: it has both a right and left inlet position. The left one will connect to the radiator while the other will connect to the tank. As the water exits the engine, part will go through the radiator and part to the turbos and then back to the supply tank or overboard. Pretty simple in theory.

Engine Compartment Fittings
The two fittings in the picture are -10 90 degree bulkhead items. They are on the passenger side of the firewall. The one in the back is the supply to the water pump and it will be turned down toward the frame rail. I will build a -10 hard line for that rather than use a braided hose..cheaper. Because these penetrate a 16 gauge sheetmetal firewall, I had to make some washers for the side with the bulkhead nut. The firewall was too thin to permit a good cinchdown to keep the fitting positioned.

Another item or 2 in this photo is the method I used to mount the steering shaft, the motor mounts, and the brake line. The Steering shaft column fits into a fully welded sleeve. This sleeve is clamped to the column using a T-bolt clamp. Note also that there is a large steel washer between the u-joint fitting and the outer sleeve: this will prevent the steering system from "spearing" me should something happen like a crash or wreck. The motor mounts are fabricated from the same material as the frame rails. They have a large hole for a special rubber and steel fitting with a through bolt. Between the engine mount and the frame mount is a donut cut from the sidewall of a tire to add just a little bit of compliance or give to keep from breaking things. Shown right under the driver's side frame mount is the stainless steel brake line from the master cylinder to the front brakes. Right under the 2 -10 fittings, near the frame rail is a hole where the battery cable electrical feed though penetrates into the engine compartment.

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Trunk Bulkhead Fittings
The trunk or rear bulkhead uses 2 -10 45 degree bulkead fittings. I put the 45 degree end in the trunk and just fitted the hard lines to the straight end section of the fittings. As you can see, I had to make washers for these fittings as well. I bought the -10 tubing from Summitt and the fittings from Races Wholesale Parts. They have the best prices. I had never bent tubing like this so it is pretty rough. It snakes down the center of the wheel tubs area makes a right turn around the fire bottles down into the passenger seat area and then into the passenger foot tub. It bends upward and turns to make the connection to the engine compartment fittings.

The red cable is the one that goes to the starter. I have it rigged such that it is only hot during starting motor operation. Since it penetrates the engine compartment firewall in roughly the same place as the water fittings, I just routed it along with the water hard lines. The bulkhead penetration for the cable is slick: it is a unit that comes from Waytek. As you can see, I still have some wire run issues with other wires (blue tape).

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Trunk Plumbing
There are lots of things going on it this photo. The 10 gallon tank is from MAS. I was asked it it would hold radiator pressure and I think so. If not then I will just open a vent overboard for steam. I welded in 2 -10 bungs for water supply and return. Supply comes off from the bottom and return goes back into the tank at the far end on top. The hoses are Parker Hannifin blue socketles hose. Each end at the tank has a 90 degree socketless hose fitting and man are they hard to insert into that hose! The tank was sold as a ful tank, so I had to install a radiator cap fitting. My welding is not so good, but it is stuck on. The tank is held in place via 2 straps supplied with the tank.

Next to the tank is the battery box. This is a heavy gauge steel unit that is bolted down with four 3/8 inch grade 5 bolts. Why grade 5? Well, so they would offer some give before breaking. I will use an Optima Battery for both it's deep cycle life and for the no spill design.

Between the tank and battery box is the starter solenoid. The cold side of the solenoid goes to the starter while the hot side goes to the safety switch mounted on the valance, just visible in the lower right hand corner of the picture. The solenoid "I" terminal goes to the Distributor TFI while the "S" terminal goes to the starter switch on the instrument panel. It should be noted here that the alternator output is connected to the hot side of the rear safety switch: this will permit completely shutting down the electrical system in the event of a safety upset condition.

Barely visible under the tank is the beam to which everything is mounted. It is a piece of the frame rail material to which I added some bolt fastening lugs. Thes permit 4 grade 8 bolts to be passes through the unit through the rear frame horns. It is secure!

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